Lofoten, Norge (Norway) Part II (Now with SNOW!)

Snowy time in the coolest archipelago in the world!

Caribbean of the Arctic. April 2022.

Nirvana in Henningsvær. April 2022.

Clouded.

Yellow Boat in a Storm.

Tropical Waters and Snow Storms.

Gulls chasing Fishing Boat to Church. April 2022.

Setting Sun Behind the Ridgeline. April 2022.

Dark Snow Clouds. April 2022.

Salted Dried Cod Production in Svolvær. April 2022.

Vågan Kirke, Outside of Svolvær. April 2022.

Frosted Tips Outside Svolvær. April 2022.

Fjord Near Narvik (Evenskjer, I Believe). April 2022.

Snowscape outside Björnliden, Sweden. April 2022.

Heart Cloud at Dusk. April 2022.

So I cheated, these last two are from the drive back into Sweden, just outside of Björnliden. But the sunset was beautiful and the snow was blowing around making a crazy mist so I had to post them. (Please don’t) sue me.

Koblenz and Castles

Welcome to Koblenz, a city in Southwest Germany:

Schloss Stolzenfels, one of the many castles that line the river valleys around Koblenz

Koblenz is located at the intersection of the Rhine and Moselle rivers and is surrounded by more castles than you can shake a stick at. After reading about some of the coolest castles in Western Germany, I figured Koblenz was a good place to start. Driving time was pretty short (about 2.5 hours from Utrecht) and the German borders had finally opened to Dutch tourists. After more than 3 months of quarantine, it was time for a relaxing (and responsible!) trip.

I looked for hotels with a nice view on one of the river banks and settled on the Mercure Hotel, a 4-star hotel on the Rhine River that checked all the boxes. As it turns out, they had just reopened a few days prior and had some good Coronavirus prevention strategies in place. Masks were required in the lobbies, elevators, and hallways, and rooms were left un-booked for several days between guest stays. Partly due to this and partly because of the type of room I had booked (City View ftw!) we ended up having the entire top floor to ourselves. There were beautiful views of the southern half of the city (including Schloss Stolzenfels in the distance) and the Rhine River.

Going into town that evening was an interesting experience. There were tons of people out and about, enjoying the night air. Many people had masks on, and they were required when entering any indoor area. Everything closed down around 22.30, with a pair of police officers politely going around the square and asking people to disperse. After picking out some to-go beverages, we walked on a nice boulevard that ran the length of the western bank of the Rhine and found a nice bench to people watch. A very solid evening.

Wandering through the old town the following day, it was time to seek out some breakfast (brunch actually. Wake-up calls are unnecessary when you’re on vacation and mornings are stupid). Eventually we landed at the Altstadt Hotel & Café (above) that had great outdoor seating on a beautiful square next to the Town Hall (below). Masks were required indoors again (a regulation throughout Germany) but once you sat down outside you are free to remove them in order to drink your massive “bowl” of coffee. And I mean massive. It required both hand to pick up and drink, and boy was it delicious. The sandwiches were no less delicious. Altstadt Café bakes their bread fresh, and the cream cheese/peppers/diced pepperoni panini daily special was exactly what I needed. 100 percent recommended.

Johannes-Müller-Denkmal, a monument from 1899 honoring Doctor Johannes Müller. It stands in front of Koblenz Town Hall and Citykirche.

The rest of the day was spent wandering the city, exploring on foot. Recommendations include:

  • Ludwig Museum and Basilica of St. Castor - Beautiful gardens and a beautiful church.

  • Memorial of German Unity/Deutsches Eck - People watching, river confluence, outdoor biergarten.

  • Weindorf Koblenz - Winery with an excellent traditional German menu (schnitzel AND POTATOES!)

  • Hauptfriedhof Koblenz - Hike into the hills surrounding Koblenz to see the main cemetery. Several WWI and WWII memorials and beautiful gardens.

Herz-Jesu-Kirche, a Catholic Church in Koblenz c.1903

Sunday: On to the castles! The goal was five castles in one day. Google Maps were created. The car was started. Here we go…

Burg Thurant, Alken, Germany. Vinerads lead down to the town of Alken and the Moselle River. Castle #4!

Pergola Garden, Schloss Stolzenfels, Koblenz, Deutschland.

Burg Lahneck, castle #2 on the whirlwind castle tour.

Burg Eltz. c.1157

Wrapping up with Burg Eltz (the castle that inspired the trip in the first place), it was time for dinner at Pizzeria Vulcana in the nearby town of Münstermaifeld. The outdoor seating provided a great view of Stiftskirche St. Martin und St. Severus. Great food with a great view!

Thanks for reading! Please Like or Comment below if you have questions.

Graffiti near Koblenz Stadtmitte, the main train station in Koblenz.

Genève, Suisse

Here are some pictures and words from a weekend trip to Geneva, about as far west as you can go in Switzerland (and surrounded on 3 and a half sides by France).

The former Collège de Genève, founded in 1559, and now Calvin Middle School.



Atop Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève. November 2019.

Geneva is a beautiful city, and one of the most expensive places I’ve ever been. When people tell you that Switzerland is expensive, that is not a joke at all. But the distant mountains are striking, and the water is crystal clear. We spent a Saturday wandering around the city (as usual). The landmark that really stands out is the St Pierre Cathedral. Since it’s up on a hill, you can see it from almost anywhere in the city. So of course I had to check it out.

St Pierre’s is easily one of the most accessible cathedrals I’ve visited. Not only can you tour the interior, but you can go up into the belfry, the “attic” and both towers. The views from the top were incredible. Even cooler, there is a rather extensive museum underneath the building. You can see tombs and the foundations of the various buildings that have existed in the same spot for almost two thousand years. It’s a “can’t miss” attraction.

View of Geneva to the South.

Dusk. Lake Geneva. November 2019.

All of this walking around obviously makes you hungry. Especially because Switzerland actually has hills (unlike a certain mostly-below-sea-level country we had flown in from…) Across the lake from the hotel Google led us to a fantastic Italian restaurant called “Da Paolo”. You should eat there. We ate at Da Paolo again the following day because there were so many things I wanted to try. Then we watched the sun dip below the buildings.

Guide Light in Lake Geneva.

Lake Geneva at Sunset, November 2019.

Day Two consisted of another walkabout. Morning coffee came from the insanely charming Cottage Cafe, right beside the Monument Brunswick. Literally placed in a tiny cottage in a peaceful park, this place turned out to be a great find. There weren’t very many cafes on the northeast shore of the lake and we almost settled for Starbuck’s (please no.) but walked up to the Cottage just before serious caffeine withdrawals set in and things got ugly. It’s been notoriously hard for me to find a big American-sized cup of coffee in Europe, but this place helped me out (and served with Swiss chocolate!).

I had two.

Other highlights included a walk down the Rhône River, visiting a beautiful ancient cemetery, checking out bridges and lochs, and a floating shopping center in the middle of the river (Da Paolo for lunch of course. Also, cemetery has too many “e’s”. One of them should definitely be an “a”.) On the southeast bank of Lake Geneva there was a playground made of bouncy recycled tire remnants. Swings made of tires, climbing rubber tire strands, and a tire swing held up by other strips of tire rubber. Kids be damned, swinging on bouncing swings on the shore of a clear lake is just as fun for adults. Also noteworthy was the nearby Villa la Grange, an extensive open park area with a central villa and an amphitheater.

Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Genève

Lac Léman (Lake Geneva). November 2019.

If you’re ever in eastern France and want to check out Switzerland, you could do far worse than Geneva. Coffee, Chocolate, Cathedrals. And Coffee.